We left Zagreb after two nights and we were ready to move on. Zagreb city center is quite small, so we walked a good portion of it and visited its most popular museum, The Museum of Broken Relationships. I couldn’t imagine what an entire museum dedicated to heartbreak could be all about and why I would want to go there. But it is the most talked about museum in Zagreb, so we felt we should go and see why it is so famous. The museum is housed in a quaint stone building up the hill in the old part of the city called Baroque Kulmer Palace, where cars aren’t permitted. The very first story I read in the museum was not about heartbreak, but about everlasting love, bu it was the only story I saw that had a happy ending. Some stories were about bad break-ups and infidelity, and others were about losing a parent or being abandoned by one. If you visit Zagreb, you must see this unique museum.
The museum is housed in a quaint stone building up the hill in the old part of the city called Baroque Kulmer Palace, where cars aren’t permitted. The very first story I read in the museum was not about heartbreak, but about everlasting love. It was the only story I saw that had a happy ending. Some stories were about bad break-ups and infidelity, and others were about losing a parent or being abandoned by one. If you visit Zagreb, you must see this unique museum because it is just so unique and entertaining.
We rented a little Audi, left Zagreb and drove two hours inland to a very famous National Park in Croatia called Plitvice Lakes. Chris and I debated for months about whether to hike around Plitvice Lakes, because in doing so we would sacrifice the Istria region of Croatia, which is known for its gastronomy and wine. Anthony Bourdain did an entire episode dedicated to his drunken escapades in this region.In the end, we wanted to see the lakes because we were told it is something you must not miss when visiting Croatia.
We rented a nice room in a house right in Plitvice Lakes so we could walk out the front door and head right into the park. Our host was the charismatic Miro who cooked us a full feast that night for dinner. I will circle back around to that in a minute.
Well, you have never seen lakes like this before. What makes these lakes special is that it is a series of seven lakes flowing over limestone and chalk, which is what makes the water look unbelievably blue and green translucent all the way to the bottom. The park has been nicely built with wooden plank walking trail that winds all the way through and around the park without ruining the look and feel of the lakes and waterfalls. We hiked seven miles through caves and next to colossal waterfalls before we headed back to Miro’s house, where he had a feast waiting.
We were pretty hungry when we got back to Miro’s house. There was a raucous group of people from France at the table to our left, and a nice British couple seated at our table. Miro told us that the French requested pork neck and chicken, and the British requested Boar stew. Chris asked Miro what he was making for the Americans (haha) and he said that we were getting everything. Holy shit! That sounds like a lot of food.
First came the huge casserole of mushroom risotto which Chris and I polished off because it was amazingly delicious. We were pretty much full at this point. Then out came the chicken and pork neck with roasted potatoes. Next, we got enough Boar stew with gnocchi, enough to feed our entire family of six. Then cabbage salad. Then cucumber and tomato salad. Naturally, we could barely touch the Boar stew. Boar stew isn’t really our food choice anyway, but we literally did not have another bit of space in our bellies. The Americans were the only people who were served every single dish. When we couldn’t eat the Boar stew, Miro and his son were so sad. It did not matter how many times I told him we couldn’t eat all that food, he still felt we didn’t like it. We were both right. I did manage to find a tiny little space in my belly for the molten chocolate cake.
Miro’s hospitality was first-class and his warm demeanor made me happy.
Next time I will tell you about the huge abandoned villa we visited, deep in the woods, that used to be owned by famous President of former Yugoslavia, Josip Broz Tito. The Brits told us about it. Never in America would you see something like this. It was very creepy.
Until next time, the mothership is signing off.